I knew this trip would be busy, but I don't think I'd fully anticipated either the lack of unstructured time or the lack of sleep. It seems the best time to catch up on work, blog and reflect is on airplanes and trains between cities.
I'm woefully behind on my blog, and now that I'm sitting in an airport about to leave Spain, it seems like I should get up that post about Sweden. While I have my own thoughts about that leg of the trip, my colleague Alex Perez did a great job with his summary, and I'm sharing the link.
Right now, we are off to Prague. I hope to get a free minute to post about Spain.... suffice it would be hard to find two places more different than Sweden and Spain!
Friday, October 14, 2011
Saturday, October 8, 2011
Is there anything (or anyone!) that doesn't work in Sweden?
I’m still working on my post about all the amazing things about Sweden: Great family leave policies, free access to universities, women’s participation in the political process, lack of money in politics, highest employment rates in the world, no war in 200 years, government surplus, Volvo’s for everyone…. We keep thinking there must be SOMETHING about this place that doesn’t work.
Today, we finally got to learn about one shortcoming in Swedish history. The Vasa warship. This ship was completed in 1628 after years of labor to put it together. There was an extravagant ceremony for the maiden voyage of the ship, with people crowded into the harbor to watch. Unfortunately for the shipbuilder, the designer and—most significantly—the people on the ship, the vessel sank within 20 minutes of leaving docks. It sailed less than one nautical mile. Epic fail.
In 1961, they raised the ship and now it is part of a pretty impressive museum. It’s like a gift from the people of the 17th century to the 21st century. They did have an eye for beauty!
We also visited City Hall today. In addition to being the real administrative center for the City of Stockholm, it hosts the Nobel Laureate banquet and ball each year. The facility was a contrast to Sweden’s understated style--- sweeping architecture and ornate decoration were quite impressive. So was the enormity of the City Hall.
Tonight, our group went to the opera (a very strange interpretation of Madame Butterfly) and continued debriefing about how Sweden works. People like paying their taxes which are very high. There is little poverty. The services are great, the budget is healthy, and the political parties work together. They proudly talk about the “Swedish Welfare State”--- confusing to Americans who generally would see such a statement as a negative. It is something that inspires great pride in the people who live and work here--- and they do work. They have among the highest employment rates in the world AND are of the few places that have actually successfully increased their pension age.
More on this soon…
Friday, October 7, 2011
Crisis Resolved
Thank goodness for my friend, Ray Starling who solved the Swedish Fish crisis. He found this traditional Swedish store that restored my American faith in candy.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Churchbells and Swedish fish
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| Courtyard of our hotel |
What a whirlwind day in Stockholm. We completed five meetings today, covering everything from foreign policy, to the Swedish Welfare State, Sweden's higher education system, the banking system, and the nation's pension fund. I also had my individual meeting with Mr. Henry Swensson, who is one of the individuals leading Sweden's special education programs. There was a clear theme through all of these meetings: The Swedish people are clear about who they are, believe in common sense, and once they commit to a goal they see it all the way through. I plan to blog about those more serious matters soon, but need time to sort through my notes.
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| Art in the lobby of the Swedish Institute for International Affairs--- the location of our first of five appointments today. |
We're also finally adjusting to the loss of carry out coffee cups. Instead, we're learning to use the fancy machines in the offices which make coffee beverage by the mug (or half mug.) Today, we tested out "chokokafee", which we think is hot chocolate and coffee. We're also uniformly impressed by the amazing bread here. The continental breakfast includes freshly baked, crusty bread that you slice on the table. Yum!
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| Getting our caffeine fix before the fourth presentation of the day: "The Swedish Modern Welfare State, Its Future and Challenges" |
We are staying at the Esplenade Hotel right along the river. It is an old hotel that has had only a few owners over the last century. The public areas are beautiful, and the rooms are simple, efficient and clean. It's centrally located, and when I was sleeping last night I kept waking up to the sound of horse hooves and church bells. I really love the mix of old and new in this city. With the water, clean air and friendly people this seems like a place it would be easy to live.
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| The hall to our rooms. |
The ringing of the church bells is a mystery. On the whole, the Swedes are very non-religious. Church services are hard to come by, though there is a Mosque and a Synagogue. Looking out the window of one of our meetings today, I saw the horses and fancy guards go by after the ceremony at the Palace. I hope there is a chance to see that more closely before we leave.
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| Bread and mushroom soup. Perfect! |
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Powerful women wear ballet flats...
Today, I met the Archduchess and Princess Imperial of Austria, Princess Royal of Hungary and Bohemia, and Countess Douglas. Also known as Ms. Walburga Habsburg Douglas, she is a Member of the Swedish Parliament and is the daughter of the Crown Prince of Austria-- Otto Von Habsburg of the Habsburg Empire.
Her name, titles and family history aren't nearly as interesting as her personal story, her energy, and her gracious demeanor. When she met us in the lobby of the Parliament building, it took me a few minutes to realize that it was her. She simply introduced herself as "Walburga" (her first name) and ushered us upstairs to a meeting room, where she offered us coffee.
Prior to moving to Sweden (she married a Swede), Ms. Habsburg Douglas was a member of the European Parliament. She supported the formation of the EU because of her belief that it was critical to peace in Europe. She moved to Sweden after she married a Swede, and learned that the Swedish had a different perspective on the essential nature of an integrated Europe.
Unlike Austria, Sweden wasn't embroiled in either World War or the Cold War. The nation remained unaligned, maintaining relationships with all of the players. Even before the EU, Sweden enjoyed peace.
Walburga originally wanted to serve as a Swedish delegate to the EU but that didn't work out. Instead, she decided that if she was elected to the Swedish Parliament, she would be in a unique position to help lead Sweden to join the EU. Her extensive contacts and relationships with other nations make her a natural expert in foreign policy, and that is where she focuses most of her efforts. During our time with her we discussed the Middle East, Libya, and Sweden't Foreign Policy Statement of 2010. She also puts energy into encouraging women to run for office.
An astounding 48% of the members of the Swedish Parliament are women. (Only 18% of Oregon's Legislature is female, and less than a quarter of the US Congressional seats are held by women.) Many of the Swedish MPs are young women (under 35) with young children at home--- this is the exception in both Oregon and the US. Because Sweden has liberal policies that support working families, it is expected that women will return to the workforce around the time their children turn 14 months old. As a result, Swedes tend to believe that "the more women the better" when it comes to politics.
Unfortunately, this enthusiasm does not transfer over to the corporate world. Women in Sweden still earn less than men, and are very underrepresented as CEOs and members of the boards of the nation's most important businesses. This has led to a new national debate in Sweden about whether the Parliament should require quotas for women's representation in the business world.
We talked a little bit about politics and elections. Elections are publicly funded, and Walberga said a campaign typically costs the equivalent of $2000. (Yep. That's Two Thousand). She represents about 80,000 constituents. She likes to go door to door during campaigns (like most candidates, she didn't initially love it), and has now taken to doorknocking even outside of campaign season. She talked about how important it is to hear directly from people about what they need and what they are thinking. She talked a bit about the challenges of engaging the general public in discussions about foreign policy.
She spoke eagerly about a new Swedish employment initiative which aims to put hundreds of Swedes with severe disabilities into paid work situations each month. Sweden also has largely inclusive schools, and has no institutions for people with intellectual disability. In terms of the community inclusion movement, Sweden is really a world leader. I asked her what caused this, and her answer surprised me.
She said Sweden is a small nation, and it needs ALL of its people-- including those with disabilities-- in order to work. She said inclusion in school started as a political movement that turned out to be good for everyone. She said that it simply doesn't make sense to isolate people, or keep them apart.
One more surprising tidbit from our conversation--- Sweden hosts more Iraqi refugees in one city than live in the entirety of the United States.
As we wrapped up our discussion, Walburga stood and helped us clear the dishes. It was at this point that I recognized she was wearing jeans and ballet flats. (To appreciate this reference, you really have to read this Oregonian article about women in Oregon politics and my shoes!)
Just goes to show, you can't judge the power, effectiveness or efficiency of a woman by her shoes! (And a note to my kids: Even those called "Princess" or "MP" happily help clear the table!)
Her name, titles and family history aren't nearly as interesting as her personal story, her energy, and her gracious demeanor. When she met us in the lobby of the Parliament building, it took me a few minutes to realize that it was her. She simply introduced herself as "Walburga" (her first name) and ushered us upstairs to a meeting room, where she offered us coffee.
Prior to moving to Sweden (she married a Swede), Ms. Habsburg Douglas was a member of the European Parliament. She supported the formation of the EU because of her belief that it was critical to peace in Europe. She moved to Sweden after she married a Swede, and learned that the Swedish had a different perspective on the essential nature of an integrated Europe.
Unlike Austria, Sweden wasn't embroiled in either World War or the Cold War. The nation remained unaligned, maintaining relationships with all of the players. Even before the EU, Sweden enjoyed peace.
Walburga originally wanted to serve as a Swedish delegate to the EU but that didn't work out. Instead, she decided that if she was elected to the Swedish Parliament, she would be in a unique position to help lead Sweden to join the EU. Her extensive contacts and relationships with other nations make her a natural expert in foreign policy, and that is where she focuses most of her efforts. During our time with her we discussed the Middle East, Libya, and Sweden't Foreign Policy Statement of 2010. She also puts energy into encouraging women to run for office.
An astounding 48% of the members of the Swedish Parliament are women. (Only 18% of Oregon's Legislature is female, and less than a quarter of the US Congressional seats are held by women.) Many of the Swedish MPs are young women (under 35) with young children at home--- this is the exception in both Oregon and the US. Because Sweden has liberal policies that support working families, it is expected that women will return to the workforce around the time their children turn 14 months old. As a result, Swedes tend to believe that "the more women the better" when it comes to politics.
Unfortunately, this enthusiasm does not transfer over to the corporate world. Women in Sweden still earn less than men, and are very underrepresented as CEOs and members of the boards of the nation's most important businesses. This has led to a new national debate in Sweden about whether the Parliament should require quotas for women's representation in the business world.
We talked a little bit about politics and elections. Elections are publicly funded, and Walberga said a campaign typically costs the equivalent of $2000. (Yep. That's Two Thousand). She represents about 80,000 constituents. She likes to go door to door during campaigns (like most candidates, she didn't initially love it), and has now taken to doorknocking even outside of campaign season. She talked about how important it is to hear directly from people about what they need and what they are thinking. She talked a bit about the challenges of engaging the general public in discussions about foreign policy.
She spoke eagerly about a new Swedish employment initiative which aims to put hundreds of Swedes with severe disabilities into paid work situations each month. Sweden also has largely inclusive schools, and has no institutions for people with intellectual disability. In terms of the community inclusion movement, Sweden is really a world leader. I asked her what caused this, and her answer surprised me.
She said Sweden is a small nation, and it needs ALL of its people-- including those with disabilities-- in order to work. She said inclusion in school started as a political movement that turned out to be good for everyone. She said that it simply doesn't make sense to isolate people, or keep them apart.
One more surprising tidbit from our conversation--- Sweden hosts more Iraqi refugees in one city than live in the entirety of the United States.
As we wrapped up our discussion, Walburga stood and helped us clear the dishes. It was at this point that I recognized she was wearing jeans and ballet flats. (To appreciate this reference, you really have to read this Oregonian article about women in Oregon politics and my shoes!)
Just goes to show, you can't judge the power, effectiveness or efficiency of a woman by her shoes! (And a note to my kids: Even those called "Princess" or "MP" happily help clear the table!)
Welcome to Sweden!
(Why are there so many posts today? Because I haven't been blogging. I plan to go back in time to catch up, and blog daily moving forward.)
As the five of us flew into the Bromma Airport, I was struck by the clear skies and green landscapes below me. From the sky, Stockholm reminded me of the Pacific Northwest--- but once we landed, it seemed as though we were in Boston.
We were greeted at the airport by our incredible city host, Ebba Martensson. Ebba has been with GMF for nearly a year. Previously, she interned at the Hague working on war crimes and then worked in India for four years on issues related to the police. We are the first group Ebba has hosted, but you would never know that based on the schedule she's built for us!
It was a quick trip from the airport to the hotel, and we then quickly changed into clothes for our afternoon appointments. Ebba escorted us to an amazing food market so that we could pick up some lunch. The variety of prepared and unprepared dishes, meats, fruits, cheeses and desserts was overwhelming. So was the Swedish language! When I look at French, German or Spanish I can usually get a sense of what the words mean--- especially in the context of a menu or a food locker. However, the Swedish words are completely confusing to me!
Our group settled on Thai, which we enjoyed on park benches in a lovely plaza. Sheila and I were struck by how much the city resembles Boston, and both remarked that we felt a bit like we were sitting in Copley Square. Stockholm is considerably cleaner than Brussels, and the people seem much more relaxed.
Our first meeting today was with Mr. Magnus Henrekson who is the Director of the Research Institute of Industrial Economics. He planned to speak to us about the Swedish Business Environment--- which he did-- but we quickly sidetracked him with questions about education, health care and family policy. Sweden's system of public services is much different than what we are used to in the United States, and so is their business history. For a long time, Swedes were compensated based on a very beaurocratic system that took into account things like education level and age. Today, tax rates are at what was described as a "low" rate of 50% or 30%, based on income. Not too long ago, all Swedes payed an 85% marginal tax rate!
Sweden is working to transform its business environment, while retaining its family friendly policies that make the quality of life here so high. 50 hours a week of child care for one child will cost a family about $250/month. A second child will boost the family rate to $300. Health care, preschool, grade school, high school and university are all covered by the public system. Just as in the United States, Sweden is debating about which public services to privatize. For instance, there are no longer post offices. You buy stamps at the grocery store. They are waging the same battles we are over grade inflation and school vouchers, and there is much debate about private health care providers.
One thing that surprised me was how difficult it has been to start businesses in Sweden. I was told there is only one IKEA store in Sweden because the regulations are far too difficult to manage opening a second store.
We had only one hour with Mr. Henrekson which wasn't nearly enough. Fortunately, we have several other meetings this week which will allow us to explore these issues in greater depth.
As the five of us flew into the Bromma Airport, I was struck by the clear skies and green landscapes below me. From the sky, Stockholm reminded me of the Pacific Northwest--- but once we landed, it seemed as though we were in Boston.
It was a quick trip from the airport to the hotel, and we then quickly changed into clothes for our afternoon appointments. Ebba escorted us to an amazing food market so that we could pick up some lunch. The variety of prepared and unprepared dishes, meats, fruits, cheeses and desserts was overwhelming. So was the Swedish language! When I look at French, German or Spanish I can usually get a sense of what the words mean--- especially in the context of a menu or a food locker. However, the Swedish words are completely confusing to me!
Our group settled on Thai, which we enjoyed on park benches in a lovely plaza. Sheila and I were struck by how much the city resembles Boston, and both remarked that we felt a bit like we were sitting in Copley Square. Stockholm is considerably cleaner than Brussels, and the people seem much more relaxed.
Our first meeting today was with Mr. Magnus Henrekson who is the Director of the Research Institute of Industrial Economics. He planned to speak to us about the Swedish Business Environment--- which he did-- but we quickly sidetracked him with questions about education, health care and family policy. Sweden's system of public services is much different than what we are used to in the United States, and so is their business history. For a long time, Swedes were compensated based on a very beaurocratic system that took into account things like education level and age. Today, tax rates are at what was described as a "low" rate of 50% or 30%, based on income. Not too long ago, all Swedes payed an 85% marginal tax rate!
Sweden is working to transform its business environment, while retaining its family friendly policies that make the quality of life here so high. 50 hours a week of child care for one child will cost a family about $250/month. A second child will boost the family rate to $300. Health care, preschool, grade school, high school and university are all covered by the public system. Just as in the United States, Sweden is debating about which public services to privatize. For instance, there are no longer post offices. You buy stamps at the grocery store. They are waging the same battles we are over grade inflation and school vouchers, and there is much debate about private health care providers.
One thing that surprised me was how difficult it has been to start businesses in Sweden. I was told there is only one IKEA store in Sweden because the regulations are far too difficult to manage opening a second store.
We had only one hour with Mr. Henrekson which wasn't nearly enough. Fortunately, we have several other meetings this week which will allow us to explore these issues in greater depth.
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